Liberation Tiny Homes is mixing things up! They’ve started building A-Frame tiny homes and have build slots coming up this summer to create these awesome 400 sq. ft. A-frame cabins.
What’s unique about this design is that the main portion of the home features that signature deep-pitch roof, but the bedroom at the back has a “normal” four-wall design, allowing for plenty of headroom and maneuverability in the bedroom and bathroom. It’s the best of both cabin and A-frame worlds, plus there’s no loft! The starting price for one of these is $110K.
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30’x13′ Modern A-Frame Cabin For Sale
Here’s the living room with that big window view.
And here it is without furniture.
On the back wall you have a corner kitchen and a mudroom.
Through the door is the beautiful bedroom.
Tons of room to walk around and big windows.
There’s a separate entrance and a closet.
The bathroom has a vanity, toilet and shower stall
Here’s the floor plan!
CLICK HERE For the 360 Tour!
- Corrugated metal roof and siding
- Cedar accents with natural oil sealer
- Option to add RV Park model certification – PWA
- Black Interior/Exterior Vinyl 8300 series windows
- ProVia Smooth fiberglass entry door with full glass
- Custom tempered glass with aluminum frame in living room Aframe
- Large picture window in bedroom
- Insulation:Walls/floors/ceiling R20 closed cell spray foam
- Engineered Hardwood Flooring
- Walls and ceiling finished in 1⁄2” C2 birch plywood, primed and painted
- Flat panel interior doors
- Large built-in wardrobe in bedroom
- Window trim, primed and painted
- Birch flat panel cabinets with soft close drawers and doors
- Butcher block countertop
- Stainless steel sink
- Two burner electric cooktop
- Microwave with cabinet above cooktop
- Under counter refrigerator
- Builtin dining space with oak butcher block
- Delta premium faucets in all locations
- Floating vanity with butcher block countertop
- 5’ shower base with acrylic surround
- Hot water heater
- 100 AMP panel with conduit for multiple direct connection options
- Dual head Samsung mini split units 9k per head
- Exterior light beside front door
- Exterior outlet
- Dimmable Hafele LED strip lights framing exterior of living room Aframe window
- RecessedWAC lights throughout home
- Bath pendant above vanity
- Wall mountlight above kitchen sink
- Mid Century Modern A Frame Cabins
- Get Your Free 12×16 A-Frame Plans from Zero-4
- Tiny A-Frame Cabin Perched 40ft in the Forest
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Natalie C. McKee
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guess I will remain homeless. nice design…………
Depends what you intend to get, if you insist on all or nothing then yes, your options will be limited. However, there’s always other options if you’re open to them…
Hi James, you’ve made lots of helpful, well-informed comments here. Much appreciated!
Would you have any suggestions for someone seeking a low-cost, but well-built & highly insulated small home of approx 600~800 sqft?
I’ve been thinking of a simple 2-story (since generally cheaper to build up, right?) 16 x 24, so 384 sqft per floor for 768 total, and maybe finish off the attic for some add’l storage or even living space.
Go with a simple roof, preferably metal for durability & longevity..and an overall simple, open layout to help keep costs down.
Any thoughts or suggestions along these lines?
Any idea re likely price? I’m hoping for around 100k, tho that may be highly optimistic.
Aiming to set up a micro-village longer-term, so any suggestions will be applied to multiple smaller homes..likely ranging 250 ~ 800 sqft. Thanks so much to you (or anyone else with feedback)!
First, location… It’ll determine most of your costs and what you can and can’t place on the property. So make sure you can do a 2 story structure and that the lot is large enough to meet all local requirements for the size structure you want to place there and that there’s no other restrictions like minimum square feet requirements that may be a barrier to your plans.
Second, while undeveloped land can be a lot cheaper it can cost more than the house to develop it. So even with a developed property check what, if any, additional costs you may have to deal with for meeting the local requirements and establish the infrastructure you’ll need to support the home. A property lot that’s all set to go and you just need to do basic hook ups would be ideal to minimize additional costs but isn’t always an option.
Depending on how that works out can prepare you for what will be involved and provide you the information necessary to figure out any options that may help minimize those additional costs or at least account for them so you aren’t surprised by them later.
Third, if possible seek already approved plans for the structure or get one designed for the area and signed off by a structural engineer as part of the costs would be the process to get the project approved and permitted. So get with the planning department in your area and make a check list of all their requirements. Time is money and the longer it takes then the more it will cost. So, while you can’t eliminate the bureaucracy, you can do what you can to minimize it and reduce the number of fees they may charge you during the whole process.
Depending on location, the fees and charges for everything involved may be small or add up to tens of thousands before you even lay your foundation. Things like getting plan approval can also be a fee that you can be charged multiple times if the original submittal isn’t approved and it takes time for each submittal to be processed as well.
While the logistics will be a factor to get all the timing right for when you can schedule work to be done, get inspections, etc. as often you’ll be limited to other people’s schedules and need to be able to work around those limitations. This is why it often takes over a year to get the whole thing done.
Fourth, if possible, optimize the structure for costs. Like, if you can go thicker on the walls you don’t need to use a high R-Value insulation and can choose lower cost options that can still give you the specs you’re seeking with a thick enough application. Among other details that can save you a bit on the actual build.
While you can also compare costs to what it would cost to have a pre-fab done. A modular house could be ordered, delivered, and assembled on site. Since, it’s built in a factory, the actual time from delivery to move in ready is a fraction of the time and there aren’t as many random factors like weather that will effect it. Between that and the time savings it may work out cheaper than a site built house or more, again, depending on the location and what’s involved.
There’s also the option to find a property that has a structure you can renovate/remodel. Doing a house flip, can be very cost effective, if it’s an option and you are able to consider that level of DIY work, which is also something to consider with a site built house project. Since, the more you can DIY then the less you have to pay someone else to do it but make sure you can do it well because mistakes and needing to redo them can flip that and make it cost more.
Not knowing your situation, this is just a general outline of what to consider but I hope it helps.
Sorry–having to ‘reply’ to my own comment since not seeing any ‘reply’ option under your response.
Thanks so much for all your helpful comments and feedback!
Was vaguely familiar with some of the process, but you laid it out simply and more helpfully than anyone has. Will have to better factor in time and costs related to bureaucratic aspects, so would be helpful to get a pre-approved plan, etc. Aim to get land outside city limits, so hopefully that’ll reduce some paperwork & restrictions, but have had to pass on several otherwise nice lots due to covenant restrictions..such as having min sqft for homes — typically double what I’m aiming for and can afford.
Yes, definitely considering prefab/modular options, tho shipping costs and other before/after costs seem to make those options less viable (cost-effective) than I had hoped.
Any other likely land development costs than these (rounded off for simplicity)?
10k for clearing just enough trees for home + solar
10k for light grading + dirt road
10k for septic (assuming land percs okay, not requiring special system)
10k for well
And rather than pay for power lines to be run, will implement ~4kW solar panels + 12kWh batteries for around 12k (assuming super-efficient small home with wood-burner).
The suggested check list will come in handy for what other costs you may have to deal with like whether or not they will charge you an impact fee, for example. Along with Survey, Engineering inspections, determining what kind of foundation you’ll need for the home, etc.
While costs, like for a well, can be hit or miss, depending on location. You can look up what is average for your area for a better idea, reputable local contractor that can give a free consultation would be ideal as they would be experts of the area, but costs can be different from one property to the next, and part of the process is budgeting for anything that may not go as planned. Like whether or not there has to be more than one attempt at drilling the well or whether it has to go deeper than expected.
There can also be other possibilities like whether the well is safe to drink or has enough flow that may need the plan to be adjusted. So you may need additional equipment to get the full use of the well.
Insurance coverage, if the installer doesn’t provide it, in case anything goes wrong like the septic tank being damaged, etc.
While it may pay to research resources like the Land Conservation Assistance Network for what grants you may be able to apply for to help you buy and develop the property. Along with researching the property, like what the weather is like over the whole year, is there any flooding, etc. along with what resources are there, as that can effect everything from developing the land, building the home, on to how it will be like to live there long term and whether that should be factored in the home’s design.
There can be a lot of variables, not everything can be predicted, but it can be managed and you can also check with locals to see if there are anything else that may help.
Again, thank you so much for your feedback and suggestions! All very helpful.
Need to check on more things (incl grant possibility you mentioned) and add even more contingency padding to the budget, so may aim for a somewhat smaller, lower-cost structure. And then expand down the road if needed and can afford it.
Flooding has definitely been an issue since we’ve been seeking land with a stream or creek on it, so the various setbacks can be extensive..not to mention often making perc more of a problem.
Side note: considering my power utility (Duke Energy Progress) is likely to get near 20% increase in rates over next 2~3 years, solar (and off-grid, generally) is looking more viable–if not necessary–all the time.
Not sold on this design. It looks nice from the outside, but with the A frame in the living room that nixes any opportunity for any wall art. Plus, that kitchen, with just a small fridge, is not sustainable for full time living. Also, why is the bed raised on two steps – seems like a tripping hazard with middle of the night trips to the loo! I think instead of that eating table they could have extended the counter and put a small round table in the middle for eating. Sorry for being such a negative Nelly, but it does not appeal. I like the wider width of course, but it doesn’t seem to have garnered much in the way of living space.
You can actually mount wall art on angled walls, just look it up and you’ll see a bunch of examples. Plenty of people don’t let angled walls stop them from decorating their home. It’s just things like cabinets and furniture that would be the issue with angled walls but it’s not like the whole home is an A-Frame, only the living room area…
While raised floor is typically for either providing storage space and/or providing a place for the house utilities. Mind, unless there’s a basement, crawlspace, or utility room, there has to be somewhere to place everything the house requires to function as a home. Like the water heater, furnace, water tank if off-grid, etc. Along with it functioning as a platform bed. So you can just have the mattress on top of it like shown and use the steps as seating…
Some people also don’t need large fridges for their needs. In fact, some people don’t even need a fridge. Or the home could be an ADU, guest house, or AirBNB in which the main house supports it. So whether its sustainable depends on the person living there and how they prefer to do it. Besides, it’s customizable and you could just have larger fridge, if that works better for you, or have another fridge somewhere else as it doesn’t all have to be in one area. Some people also just prefer shopping more regularly, like in Europe it’s pretty normal to do so pretty much daily and they don’t need to refrigerate as many things, which reduces what they need to keep in the fridge. So lifestyle will also effect how that’s considered…
People with homesteads, etc. also typically have multiple options like root cellars, cold rooms, additional freezers around the property, they can do canning, dehydration, have a spring house, and other options that don’t require refrigeration, just grow their own food that is always on hand, etc. So it’s also about how they use the property and not just the home itself.
None of that means it has to work for you, just pointing out it can for other people but that it’s fine if it doesn’t work for you as it does depend on how you’ll use it and what your specific needs are as well as whether there’s anything about it that you can change that’s reasonable before it just becomes more practical to look at something else…
This is really nice!
Admittedly I did a quick look but I really did like what I saw!!
This is a nice design although I would like it a little wider and a little longer. However, on the plan, where is the water heater? There doesn’t appear to be space for an old-school tank style or a new tankless water heater. Leaving this kind of stuff out of the plan bugs me.
General Plans usually don’t show every detail, like the utilities. You’d usually have to purchase the plans to get that level of detail, but it’s likely what’s under the bed area and why the bedroom floor is raised so high… Look at the 5th photo down of the bedroom and note past the foot of the bed and, right in the middle, against the wall is a square panel with a circular hole in the middle, which is likely the access panel and on the other side of that wall is the bathroom and the next area is the kitchen. So all the plumbing runs through there…