Acquiring and preparing a trailer for your future tiny house can be one of the most stressful parts of the construction process.

For most people the trailer is actually the single most expensive item that you’ll buy for your tiny home. And rightly so, as it’s going to be the foundation of your house.

To address this issue Tumbleweed Houses is now offering trailers specifically designed and built for tiny houses.

Three Trailer Sizes with 4 Options

There are three sizes you can pick from right now which are:

  • 14′ (~$4,000)
  • 18′ (~$4,200)
  • 20′ (~$4,500)

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 02   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

Then you can also pick four different styles within each size: 

  • No Porch
  • Corner Porch (Left)
  • Corner Porch (Right)
  • Full Porch

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 07   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

Things to Look Out for when buying Used

You can save a lot of money by acquiring a used trailer and putting lots of labor into it so it can be ready for up to 10,000 lbs of “house”.

This means your axles have to be in good shape, they must be able to handle that weight and you’ll also want to check your:

  • Tires
  • Springs
  • Flashing
  • Tongue length

Besides that you also want to obviously look at the overall condition of the steel frame.

Since I’m not an expert builder or handyman (I’m good at all that but I’m better with the computer).. I’d rather work, save up and buy one of these and get the project rolling rather than finding used and having to work on it (because that’s not what I’m good at).

So if you’re anything like me in that aspect, you’re probably also glad Tumbleweed’s offering these. And if you’re a DIY type of person (high five!), then this is how a prepped tiny house trailer should look like:

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 03   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

If you want to get info and order one of these trailers click here.

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 01   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 04   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 05   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

tumbleweed trailers for tiny houses 06   Tumbleweed Trailers Now Available to Build your Tiny House on

To order your own Tumbleweed tiny house trailer click here.

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When you build your tiny house on wheels how do you plan on acquiring a trailer? Will you get a used one? Will you have someone make one according to your specifications/design? Or will you order one from Tumbleweed? And if you found this post helpful “Like” and share using the buttons below. Thanks!

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Alex has been living in small spaces for more than 7 years, he's the founding editor of, and has passion for exploring and sharing tiny homes (from yurts and RVs to cabins and cottages) and inspiring simple living stories. Send in your story and tiny home photos so we can share and inspire others towards simplicity.

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  • Erik Markus

    Wow, a custom trailer !

    They almost look like one could use the metal cross members as the floor joists.
    The metal enclosed bottom is perfect. It will keep out mice, wind, bugs, and hold in insulation in the floor.

    Great !

    • Rio


      When building a house on our trailer you can build the sub-floor directly onto those metal floor joists. This means that you’ll also gain approx 3″ of interior head-room in your house.

      The metal flashing pan comes standard.

      • Sherry

        How would you attach the sub-flooring to the metal joist? Are they 16 oc? And what is the length and height of the wheels/wheel wells from the trailer bed? What length measures out from either side of the wheels wells and is it different on the different lengths? What method is used to extend the framing out and over the trailer bed and wheel wells to make an 8′ interior? How high from the ground does the trailer sit? Is a special permit needed to tow a loft height trailer? I thought if the final construction was under and certain size and weight no special permits or drivers license is needed…So would it be legal to tow an 8’6″ width x 24′ long x 13′ or 13.5′ high? I want to build a wheel chair accessible tiny house on wheels, which call for a minimum width of 30″ to get around in so an 8′ interior is crucial.

    • Michael Weber

      great idea! However I couldn’t find nothing about axles, brakes and suspension which are really important. I would appreciate the option of an extended towing bar to accommodate some exterior storage space.
      As Frances said a fold down porch is much more space saving. When you add an RV style awning you can even sit there. Beside that it protects the rear end when on the road.

  • Pam Watts

    This might be a dumb question, but when he builds up the floor forward on the hitch and says that that adds 3.5′–what does that do to the house’s actual dimensions? Would that, say, mean that a 14′ trailer actually had 17.5′ of interior space? Or does it mean that the trailer is only, now, a 10.5′ trailer on the road?

    • cheryl

      I didn’t see anything about 3.5 feet of extra length? Are you sure you weren’t seeing a reference to the 3.5 inches of extra headroom, because the subfloor can be installed directly to the trailer, with insulation in between those cross beams – instead of building the floor section on top of the trailer deck?

  • Jerry

    A couple of things to keep in mind about these trailers:
    1) If you do plan on building your subfloor into the trailer’s existing structure, be sure to use plenty of expanding foam to seal against invading insects. There’s lots of wiggle room between the welds that hold the flashing to the cross members, which will allow insects and other critters in unless you seal properly with expanding foam.
    2) The actual trailer with is only 6′ 10 3/8″, so you will have to plan on how to extend your sides beyond that to take up as much of the legally allowed 8.5′
    3) Depending upon the state you register it in, the ball hitch may not be sufficient for a load over 5,000lbs.

    • Abel Zyl Zimmerman

      If you are going to seal the ‘floor flashing’ make darn sure you have a vapor barrier inside the insulation. It could pick up a bit of condensation, and then stay wet ( I live in wet Western Washington, and that is what structures like to do).

      There are ball hitches (2 5/16″ + ) that are designed for WELL over 10,000 lbs, depending on the accompanying hitch, vehicle, and equipment. The SAE defines four classes of hitches. Class IV is good for up to 10,000lb trailer weight.

      • Jerry

        Thanks for mentioning the vapor barrier, and for the details about ball hitches!

      • Erik Markus

        If you use ridged, form fitting, expanded foam board insulation, you don’t need a vapor barrier.

        Fibre-glass and other types of insulation that can attract moisture or settle and lose effectiveness, are not recommended.

        • Matthew Hunt

          Be mindful of open cell vs closed cell foam. Not all foam is created equal, and most aren’t meant to be exposed directly to elemental forces such as moisture, which can literally disintegrate foam structures as it loosens the bonds between cells. Because the foam boards aren’t air tight fits, it’s still ideal to use vapor barriers, in my opinion, because your actual subfloor is exposed in the same channel of environmental influences, and your subfloor is likely to be plywood of some sort, and it most certainly does not appreciate any amount of moisture.

  • Logan

    Hi Alex,

    Great to hear about this development. :) As a heads up, Kate over a has a wonderful post on her tiny house trailer she designed with the help of Portland Alternative Dwellings:

    Like us, Kate worked with Dee Williams and Rob from Iron Eagle trailers in Portland to make a custom built tiny house trailer. Rob and Dee have collaborated on building at least 7 tiny house trailers (that I know of) and with each build they have refined features specific to Tiny house construction. The primary feature I noticed that stands apart from the tumbleweed design above are lowering the internal ribs for maximizing the trailer depth for greater insulation and construction space above. The tumbleweed trailers provide vertical “threaded anchor rods” to attach the framing at the flange surface of the trailer where as the PAD/Iron-eagle design offers predrilled and reenforced horizontal anchor bolts below the surface of the trailer flange. Since the height of the house is limited by DOT regulations it seems that the PAD/Iron-eagle design provides extra vertical space. I would also guess that the rib design of the tumbleweed trailers would allow the metal to conduct cold, around the insulation, and directly to the subfloor. Both designs are effective, safe, and likely the best trailers for tiny houses available. I just find it interesting to compare and contrast the strengths of the designs. :) Cheers!

    • Alex

      Logan thank you so much for all this info. I’d like to do a post based on it this week or next week if you wouldn’t mind helping.

    • Kate (Naj Haus)

      Yes, I went through the same thinking and decided to go with the PAD/Iron Eagle design. I liked that the subfloor frame was set within the trailer bed and bolted horizontally. It seems like that will keep it more secure on the road – inset versus like a cake on top of plate that could slide off. I don’t imagine this is actually a concern in the Tumbleweed design if you have enough bolts, but you do lose the extra height unless you put the subfloor right on the Tumbleweed trailer cross ribs. In addition to the 10 horizontal bolt holes (5 on each side), I will also be attaching the walls vertically via tension ties to the angle iron welded to the side rails of the PAD trailer.

      I am also concerned about the thermal bridging where the metal of the trailer meets the floor (on any trailer plan). I am planning on following Derin William’s ( example of building the subfloor frame about 1/2″ smaller than where it will drop into the lowered PAD trailer bed, putting closed cell rigid foam board in between the wood frame and the trailer sides and then bolting the whole package together via the horizontal bolts and spacers. This way there is a thermal break on the sides, front and back where the trailer frame meets the floor frame. I am also considering positioning my floor joists so they don’t line up over the metal cross ribs, so that there is a thermal break there. On the PAD/Iron Eagle trailer design, the cross ribs are made of a smaller width of steel to save weight and aren’t a necessary part of supporting the floor joists.

      I’m debating whether to use galvanized metal flashing vs. treated plywood due to the vapor issue, and how to provide an thermal break between where the cross ribs meet the undercarriage. Thoughts?

      The thermal bridging issue may not be an issue depending on where you live and it does seem like both designs provide excellent benefits for tiny houses. Interested in hearing from others on this!

  • pete

    The subfloor is great, but the width is a deal-breaker. Why in heck aren’t these built to easily accommodate the legally allowable 8ft5in width? Surely it wouldn’t cost much more.

    • Julie

      Does anyone know where the wheel fenders are located in the 20 foot design of the TW trailers? Also the exact dimensions? I have looked everywhere on the web. I’ve been planning my TH around approximate locations and I’m ready to pin it down exactly. Example: 10.5 feet aft front edge.

  • W. Tom Steele

    I think you should offer a 5th wheel type trailer. You know, one with a goose neck. Maybe say 26 or 28 feet long which might encourage shorter roof lines.

    • Alex Pino

      That’s a good idea. I hope they do so, too. So far, they have no plans that are designed for 5th wheel trailers though. But maybe soon? Thanks!


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