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Father and Son-In-Law’s 22 Ft. Tiny House on Wheels (For Sale)

This Father and Son-In-Law were just joking around: “We could build a nice tiny house like the other professional builders,” they thought.


And now they have! This is their 22 Ft. No Loft Tiny House on Wheels:

The main factor for this tiny house was trying to keep the house lightweight enough that a 1/2 ton vehicle could tow it. And they accomplished that. Adding help from other family members here and there. The 2 combined their 30+ years of DIY and building techniques to build this custom, one of a kind tiny house. Built with integrity in mind.

Enjoy the photos below and get details, price and the builder’s contact information on the last page!

Related: Hannah’s Tiny House: A Father-Daughter Project

Custom 22 Ft. Tiny House on Wheels For Sale!

Images via Zachary Cashio

You walk into the kitchen with large appliances.

Beautiful wooden countertops and four burners.

Love that sign: “Keep Life Simple.” The truth!

Bench seating in front of a glorious window.

Even a hidden microwave! Clever decision.

I don’t think they come with it, but I love the plates.

Just three steps to bed. No lofts in this tiny home.

Stairs “fold” up so you can access the space below the bed.

Look at all that head room. You won’t have to crouch around.

But where’s the living room? Found it!

Looking from the bedroom to the bathroom door.


Way to maximize even the littlest space!

A corner sink is a great idea in a tiny home.

You still get a nice large shower. That’s awesome!

Residential toilet means you can use RV hookups.

And there’s even hanging storage! Just what you need.

Tons of space underneath the bedroom for water tanks and more.

For reference, it fits two whole kayaks. Wow!

Love the yellow door. It could be your new home!

Images via Zachary Cashio

Related: Roost 36: The Family-Friendly THOW by Perch & Nest

Details:

  • For Sale in Heber Springs/Drasco, Arkansas
  • Custom 22ft Tiny House on Wheels
  • Weighs only 8000lbs, towable by 1/2 ton vehicle.
  • 12ft 6” tall
  • Steel square tubing frame 2’ centers with cross braces for subfloor
  • (2) 6000lb axles each with 12” electric brakes
  • Custom Chrome and Black Rims
  • Load Range D Radial Tires
  • 2 5/16” ball
  • (4) 5000lb stabiliziers
  • Commercial Grade Metal Seamless Siding
  • Tongue and Groove interior on walls and ceiling.
  • 9000 BTU 1 Ton Pioneer A/C/heat Unit
  • LED Lighting Throughout
  • Custom Storage Door with Deadbolt in rear (approximately 40-50sq ft)
  • Plenty of space for possible water holding tanks/generator (fits 2 kayaks)
  • Full size appliances (Fridge, range, microwave)
  • Stainless Steel Sinks
  • Washer/Dryer Combo Hook-up
  • Custom Bar/Dining counter with views through the huge windows
  • 48in shower full size shower
  • Rain shower head
  • Custom corner vanity
  • Medicine cabinet
  • Regular Size Toilet
  • Plenty of closet storage with 2 bars and space for undergarments
  • Elevated loft, accessible by 2 step ladder. No need for crawling with the tall ceilings. Approximately 6.5-7ft ceiling height in loft.
  • Full size Murphy bed
  • Foldable cushion couch.
  • Loft is big enough for Queen/King without murphy bed
  • 42in Flat screen TV
  • High Quality Click in Laminate Wood-look flooring
  • Closed Cell Spray Foam, each inch provides an R-Value of 7 (3.5in in ceiling, 2.5 in walls, 2in under the floor)
  • 30 Gallon Hot Water Heater
  • 50 Amp RV hook-up
  • RV water hook-up
  • Custom bumper with integrated LED Taillights
  • LED side amber markers
  • 100 Amp 16 space breaker panel, (50 Amp main, Square D)
  • Pex Plumbing routed on interior walls
  • $54,990

Contact Zachary and Chris (The Builders):

Resources:

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Natalie C. McKee

Natalie C. McKee

Natalie C. McKee is a contributing writer for Tiny House Talk and the Tiny House Newsletter. She is a coffee-loving wannabe homesteader who dreams of becoming self-sufficient in her own tiny home someday. Natalie currently resides in a tiny apartment with her husband, Casey, in Massachusetts.




{ 38 comments… add one }
  • Tom Osterdock May 24, 2017, 12:33 pm

    Glad to see in the details at the end of the article that there is in fact an agreement with the pictures that there is a loft. I don’t know why someone does not think there is a loft and that one, only two or three steps, is not as accessible as stairs. My one concern would be that it seams like they are saying in the write up that the studs are on 2ft centers instead of 16″ centers, not as stable. 2ft would be for roof and floor not walls.

    • Natalie C. McKee Natalie C. McKee May 24, 2017, 1:30 pm

      It’s certainly not as accessible as NO steps, but usually if you can stand up in it, I don’t consider it a loft 🙂 Just like there are two steps between the living room and kitchen in my parent’s home and I don’t consider the kitchen in their house in a loft, just up a couple steps. But, like you said, it’s not as accessible.

      • Tom Osterdock May 24, 2017, 3:20 pm

        The company does call it a loft and it is not on the ground floor.

  • Zachary Cashio May 24, 2017, 12:51 pm

    Tom, thank you for your feedback. The frame of this home is steel construction. Allowing us to span the studs further than wood.

    Thanks,
    Zach

    • Tom Osterdock May 24, 2017, 3:21 pm

      Thanks Zach. I do like the house but the lack of wall support would be a deal killer for me. Sorry.

      • Zachary Cashio May 24, 2017, 3:31 pm

        To each its own Tom, opinions are always helpful. The frame is fully welded by myself(certified welder) and we have towed the home numerous times, and yet it’s still intact…

        Regards

      • James D. May 24, 2017, 8:09 pm

        Tom, I guess you’re not a fan of advanced framing techniques…

        Just my two cents but as far as actual engineering is concerned the optimal spacing of the stud is intrinsically tied to the structural strength of the materials used.

        Even 16″ on center isn’t going to cut it if you use a material weaker than wood… Material strength matters just as much as how the material is used in any given framing design and steel is much stronger than wood…

        Add factors like the shape of the material can significantly effect the structural strength as well… Like a steel I-Beam is naturally much stronger than a straight steel bar of equal mass because of its shape… and this is often exploited in steel framing to maximize the structural strength for the given mass of material used…

        Going 2×6 or double stud instead of 2×4 can also significantly increase structural strength without changing the stud spacing… Along with noggins and other ways to add structural strength besides just simple horizontal and vertical studs/joists/head and base boards…

        So using materials smartly, following what engineering actually shows works, matters more in the final design than sticking to any particular framing layout design…

        Besides, there are benefits going 2′ on center… More space for insulation, including spaces in corners and around windows that would normally not be insulated with a 16″ on center framing… Less roughing through the studs for the wiring and plumbing, which means fewer structural weak points to deal with… It’s easier to put in windows, doors, etc. without re-working as much of the framing supports around them… and significant reduction in overall weight, which is important in a structure that has to be moveable… While the final structure is usually still stronger than the equivalent wood framing…

        Though, I would like more details than simply that they used steel framing but it’s safe to say that you shouldn’t judge based on just what is considered normal for wood framing when they’re not using wood and knowing that the engineering of wall structure isn’t limited to just stud spacing…

        • Tom Osterdock May 25, 2017, 1:59 am

          Hey James, Oh I am a fan of steel framing very much and have been using it for a couple of days since 1965. What has more support something 16″ apat or something 20″? Now we are not talking wood at all, to that is just a fire hazard waiting to happen. Steel is the only way to go and steel studs at 16″ are three times stronger than wood and one third the weight. My tiny at 34′ and 576sq ft will be about 12-14k lbs. I will have steel outside covering in faux wood that looks like wood until you get up to it an touch it. Back to the 16″ studs what would give more support for fixtures etc. that were designed for 16″ and nothing is designed for 20 inches. Instability right there. Doors are set up for 16″ centers, cabinets etc. everything is set for 16″ centers. I agree that the 20″ would make it much lighter but at the cost of stability especially going down the road and the swaying in all directions. One of the things I have heard but do not know if that is true but the national standards that they are setting up for tinys will have the 16″ centers in walls and 24″ for floors and ceilings at minimums. wall studs are normally 2×4 and the floor and overhead are 2×6 normally. for mine I wanted 2×6 for the kitchen ceiling so I would have room for the storage that I want in the rafters. I have bamboo flooring and haven’t decided on the interior walls. I am leaning on foam spray but do not like the toxicity of it but all the sprays have it. May go with wool batting for not toxicity or mips for R50 insulation values. We will see. I do like this house but I would want 16″ steel studs for more strength.

        • James D. May 25, 2017, 7:26 am

          Hey Tom, it’s generally not that simple…

          Again, the strength of framing isn’t just determined by the spacing of the studs.

          In fact, your point on fixtures is actually usually the opposite because there is often additional framing done in areas that are known will require to support something besides just the walls.

          Adding horizontal noggins and/or diagonal cross sections for additional cross beam support between studs allows for far more support than the vertical studs alone.

          While again, there has to be some balance between weight and structure in the use of any given material… Especially in a structure that has to be moveable… Otherwise we would be using solid steel beams instead of light weight dimensionally shaped steel.

          I understand you want to over engineer and that’s fine… But if you’re adding metal sheathing then you’re already adding to the overall strength of the structure and helping to spread any weight loads… Especially, if you spray foam and essentially glue the studs and sheathing together…

          SIPs, for example, allow for no studs at all but is still strong enough to allow the construction of a over 4 story house… and if you go for MIPs, it will be even stronger while reducing your weight estimate by significantly more… Bonus being you get 100% insulation coverage throughout the walls and don’t need as many layers to provide water and air barriers.

          If you look at some steel framing done by some Tiny House makers, they usually add many noggins and other additional dimensional framing. So there are other ways to strengthen a structure.

          You’re can also get more strength by increasing the dimensional structure of the supports… Like going from 2×4 to 2×6 and going with double studs if you really want to over engineer the strength.

          But yes, it’s also valid going 16″ on center… You won’t have as much weight savings and there are other drawbacks with the layout of the walls and how the whole structure gets designed but as long as you don’t ignore the other factors of framing it’ll definitely be strong… Like drop a car on the roof and watch it bounce off strong ;-p

        • James D. May 25, 2017, 11:35 am

          Tom, speaking of MIPs… Wasn’t that your original plan instead of steel framing? Or are you going for something super strong that combines elements of both?

        • Tom Osterdock May 25, 2017, 5:10 pm

          James, everything you have said is just what I am saying. Standard practices and strength. Standard practice is with 16″ centers. 20 ” centers would be OK and is allowed, in sheds. Yes I am looking at steel 16″ centers which saves 1/3 the weight and may have some mips for weight savings and high insulation values. James I may even have some SIPs for the Livingroom if they can be proven to be strong and safe. I don’t know about dropping a car on it but hopefully it can withstand a huricane or nuclear weapon going off next to it. I plan on Cat 5 windows.

        • James D. May 25, 2017, 9:52 pm

          Tom, steel framing doesn’t actually have that great of an advantage over wood framing for weight savings… At least if you use actual structural steel rated for load bearing construction and still insist on constructing it the same as a wood structure.

          You’ll see maybe around a 10% saving on weight and that’ll just be for the framing, which is only a small part of the total mass of the house.

          So you won’t see anywhere near getting 1/3 the weight savings without taking advantage of the material strength and adjusting the entire design of the house and everything that goes into it…

          The actual light weight steel studs that you could see a big saving on weight are only intended for non-load bearing structures like partition walls, which also means they aren’t good for supporting fixtures, etc. but again that’ll only be the weight of the framing and not the rest of the house…

          But don’t take my word for it, consult an actual structural engineer or at least a general contractor with steel framing experience and have your house plans verified for real world load capacities and stress tolerance ranges before you actually have it built…

          Unfortunately, there are products and construction methods that tend to get over hyped and it’s best to run the actual numbers to see what you’ll really be getting…

        • Tom Osterdock May 26, 2017, 2:37 am

          All to their own opinion James. I have been using a Civil Engineer and a Steel Architect that does buildings. So you are welcome to your opinion. I’ll stay with professionals with many buildings under their belts.

        • James D. May 26, 2017, 4:19 am

          Sure Tom, but you may want a second opinion from another professional anyway…

          Decades of engineering and material science are pretty conclusive on these things.

          Steel as a material is actually heavier than wood given two chunks of the same size. That’s because the density of steel is 12 times or so higher than the density of Southern Yellow Pine, for example.

          One cubic foot of steel weighs about 490 pounds, while the same size chunk of kiln-dried SYP wouldn’t top 40 pounds.

          While there are denser woods, which is what is usually being compared to for weight savings but that’s like comparing the weight of say lead to all metal materials.

          Black Ironwood, for example, is 84.5 lbs/ft3 (1,355 kg/m3), versus say Balsa wood at 8 to 14 lbs/ft3 but both are considered hardwoods…

          So right there the 1/3 claim can’t be accurate when there is a wide range of wood densities and they’re not giving a range of what that difference can be or stating which wood species they’re comparing to…

          And when talking steel framing they’re really talking about dimensionally shaped steel sheets, which like the previous mentioned I-Beam example uses the shape to retain the structural strength without as much actual material.

          For example, 43 Mil (18GA Structural) Steel “S” Studs are only 0.0451 in. (1.14 mm) thick…

          So they’re not comparing a solid block of wood to a solid block of steel. But this ignores how the framing effects the design of the rest of the house and how much additional framing elements like Noggins (Bridging, Blocking) and Herringbone struts, etc. are added to a steel framing that is using dimensionally shaped studs and thus minimal material for the build.

          Things like screws won’t have as much to grip with a thin material steel stud, which means there’s a need to add materials wherever you need to support fixtures, etc. for proper support. Nails will have even less grip, etc.

          There are options like dense drywalls that can be used to nail fixtures to but they are extra dense and thus extra heavy… and unless the sheet metal used for sheathing is thicker then it runs into the same problem for supporting fixtures, etc. without basically gluing everything…

          You’ll thus mainly hear the 1/3 weight saving claim from those selling or promoting steel framing but leaves out a lot of the details of the actual build and how weight often gets added back in… Like adding a piece of wood inside the steel stud where the nails and screws for fixtures will go to give them something to grip to…

          Many companies selling steel framing with the 1/3 weight saving claim are also doing 24″ on center to get that figure and make a point of listing greater design flexibility as one of the reasons to use steel framing over wood.

          So you may consider my conclusion an opinion but the details I listed are just the data I based my conclusion on and I believe they speak for themselves of which conclusion is more likely…

          Besides, it’s not a opinion that the framing accounts for only a small percentage of the total weight of a house and math only shows us the truth that unless you manage to save weight throughout the entire build and not just one part like the framing then you’re not going to see that much of a total weight saving… So at the very least don’t stop you planning at just the framing stage and assume everything else will just fall into place…

          In the end it’s your choice, I’m only pointing out that there are no magic solutions in construction and everything has its pros and cons to consider, as well as how one decision can effect others for a net total effect that may or may not be what you wanted… Even if parts of it were exactly as you wanted…

        • Tom Osterdock May 26, 2017, 6:07 am

          James your fantasies are very interesting but it might be time for you to come back to earth and reality. 2×4 are not made of black ironwood or balsa even though I have used both on my model trains. 2×4 are made of douglas fir for construction. we can get cedar and other woods but we are talking standard construction and not fantasies. Yes steel 2×4 are not made of solid steel blocks or steel I beams. You might use those when you built the Empire state building or the World Trade buildings but we are talking standard construction and not fantasies. Doug fir framing and standard steel, yes it is made of sheet metal that is bent to the shape of wood 2x4s is lighter by 1/3 for the same framing and no fantasies. The faux wood look steel siding is lighter than using cedar siding and both are 3 times stronger than their wood counterparts. No dreams of fantasies. I know that I will use some wall board inside the tiny and will also use some tongue and groove wood but not the whole house. I love the look of wood but not everywhere. I think it gets old fast for viewing and needs to be changed. Of course many people like the log cabins and I am one of them but we are not building log cabins here. I also like steel ships especially since I was the chief engineer for over 20 years on my ships. But we are building a tiny house and not a tiny ship. Though if I ever win the lottery I will be buying a 200 ft luxury submarine that can submerge 1000 ft and carry a three man sub that can go to any depth in the worlds oceans. But back to reality since I have not won the lottery I am building a large tiny home instead.

        • James D. May 26, 2017, 7:48 am

          Sorry Tom, but most of what I stated are facts… You may disagree with the conclusions but you can’t disagree with facts because they are provably true!

          Standard construction varies across the country by simple matter of what’s available and most economical for each area and it is a fact that not all wood construction weighs exactly the same!

          You know very well the examples of wood densities I pointed out was just making that point to show the weight savings aren’t accurate and nowhere did I argue you use wood or even LVL…

          I’ve only been trying to make you realize that there is no need to follow the rules that were established primarily for wood construction when you’re not using wood and the difference between hyped vs real world benefits…

          Different materials allows for different types and methods of construction… Methods like dimensionally shaping material allow for engineered strength tolerances in specific directions to higher levels that the material strength alone necessarily allows but there are trade offs that must be accounted for as any time you optimize something you limit its range of flexibility.

          Like a arched or domed shape roof can be superior for load bearing but it’s rarely used because of budget, time, and the limits of using materials like wood but materials like steel aren’t as limited and can be more easily shaped to show one of many ways that there are other ways to do the framing that can add strength.

          So know, my intention isn’t to mindlessly argue with you or try to impose my will upon you in any way other than presenting the facts and letting you decide.

          Presenting the facts was my only real goal and that is what I have done and you’re free to decide to ignore them.

        • Tom Osterdock May 26, 2017, 7:51 pm

          Yep you are right James, I just thought that the 2×4 from home depot and lowes were made of douglas fir and you must be right since they are your facts that they are actually made from black ironwood and the steel studs they sell at home depot and lowes are actually a 1ftx1ftx1ft steel block. You must not be in a fantasy world but your own reality.

        • James D. May 26, 2017, 11:21 pm

          Like I said Tom, you’re free to ignore the facts if that’s you’re decision.

          You’re even free to be sarcastic and make erroneous remarks based on your apparent assumptions.

          Like ignoring standard wood studs are made from a number of different wood species, including spruce, pine,& D-fir. as well as other species that are more resilient to rot and mold and thus offer advantages in certain environments… D-fir, is just a popular choice!

          But I’m sure to you that all wood looks the same and doesn’t need to be treated like an organic based material with many variables that have to be compensated and accounted for that you don’t deal with when dealing with an inorganic based material like steel but is somehow in your mind a justified comparison as if they are directly comparable and we can just ignore all the variables that makes them different…

          So good luck to you Tom…

  • Jenn May 24, 2017, 1:30 pm

    Love this Tiny House! Congrats to this Father/Son team, they did a great job. I love the hidden living room when you pull up the bed. (Murphy bed.) Thanks for sharing.

  • Gail May 24, 2017, 3:37 pm

    Love it. Very cleverly thought out and I especially love the fact that the bedroom is only 3 steps and is easy to stand up in. Great job.

  • Eric May 24, 2017, 4:45 pm

    Storage for ONLY 4 bottles of wine? Gads, oh you philistines you… lol

  • Michele in CA May 26, 2017, 2:35 pm

    Very nicely done. If the bedroom/living room were on the ground floor, I’d consider it a serious contender.

  • Nysha May 27, 2017, 5:02 am

    I really like this home. The three steps up to the bedroom/living room are totally doable and I love the Murphy bed. My only issue is that I’m too short for the shelving over the fridge to be practical, but everything else is perfect.

    • Natalie C. McKee Natalie C. McKee May 29, 2017, 4:12 pm

      Haha I feel you, Nysha! I’m always too short to reach things. Good thing my husband is tall haha.

    • Tom Osterdock May 30, 2017, 1:01 am

      that is why I am making my ceilings much shorter. I figure 6.5 to 7ft max.

  • Bigfoot May 27, 2017, 2:41 pm

    Zachary/Chris, really like your build, great job! I like the raised floor with storage underneath combined with the murphy bed. Solves a number of issues. I have a number of questions I’d like to ask regarding your build (framing, roof, trailer, windows, etc.) Should I email those rather than clog the blog? Best wishes.

    • Zachary Cashio May 27, 2017, 3:42 pm

      Hi Bigfoot, sure email will work. I think this blog is pretty crowded as you can tell from the lots of info and opinions that were freely throw about. Feel free to email either one of us. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.

    • Eric May 27, 2017, 11:59 pm

      Clog the blog… come on, we’d be very interested in what you wish to know. Sometimes questions are asked that we never knew needed to be asked.

      And heck, it’s only electrons on a screen, not like you’d be responsible for cutting down umpteen trees to be physically printed now is it?

  • Bigfoot May 28, 2017, 5:52 pm

    Hi Eric, the question was directed towards Zachary or Chris. I was trying to be polite & give them an option of how they would prefer to handle my questions. After the barrage above, it felt like the thing to do.

    • Natalie C. McKee Natalie C. McKee May 29, 2017, 2:55 pm

      Hi Bigfoot — I’d recommend shooting them a thoughtful email 🙂 I do agree after the above comments it might be easiest!

      • Kathy July 9, 2017, 4:42 pm

        Natalie, I agree with regard to the volume and tenor of the comments that clogged this blog (I do like that turn of phrase though!). Not the first time we have all been subjected to a prolonged string of messages that might be better sent directly between two disagreeing people on this wonderful and otherwise informative .com. I have noted that some bloggers reserve the right to NOT include certain comments. Has tinyhousetalk.com ever considered this? Certainly it should be considered where a commenter and builder have something to wrangle over…….maybe you could suggest they take it “outside” e.g. To a private email discussion. MOST of the rest if us are not interested in who comes out on top. Frankly, after having to scroll for such a long time to get past their back and forth, I just jumped to the end and missed other people’s comments.

        • Tom Osterdock July 9, 2017, 8:11 pm

          I am sorry Kathy for being part of that discussion. I apologize to all for that happening. I vow to never let myself be drug into that type of posting again. I am sorry for it happening and I did drop it when I saw it.

  • Elizabeth July 9, 2017, 5:16 pm

    This is one of the most well thought-out builds I’ve seen yet, great job guys! The practical usefulness of the space and the materials and design are really spot-on, and the price is quite fair. Are you starting a company or was this just a fun project? With a few customizations, I’d consider having something similar built…

  • SusieQ July 9, 2017, 5:28 pm

    At first look, I thought it was a homely little “Tiny”, but wanted to see the inside anyway. You did a good job on the arrangement of things. The Murphy Bed was a inspired idea. A couple of things I would change if I was going to live in it: Propane stove, refrigerator, hot water and heater. Fresh water, black and grey water holding tanks. Just our preference because we like to boon dock. In my humble option, it’s the best layout I’ve seen, and I’ve looked at plenty. Thumbs up to both of you.

  • Susanne July 9, 2017, 10:24 pm

    I wish I knew about construction because if I did I would understand what Tom and James were saying and might learn something! As long as they share their info respectfully, no problem.

  • Betty September 24, 2017, 8:09 pm

    Very nice THOW. I think I could handle living in it. 😊😉

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