This 40′ gooseneck trailer tiny house is a guest question by one of our awesome readers David Haas
I’m new to the tiny house movement and am exploring tons of options for myself. I’m reaching out to you as you seem to have a ton of knowledge. I like the idea of living small but was looking for something in the range of 300-400 square feet while remaining on wheels.
I don’t plan to move it often but maybe every 3-5 years. I was curious if you’ve ever heard of someone building on a longer industrial trailer. I’m aware of the dimensions to DOT certification and was curious if you’d ever heard of anything being built on this type of trailer (40 ft gooseneck)? This trailer bed has a height of 32 inches…obviously impacting the overall height limitation but I thought it was interesting.
Building a 40′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House?
Great question, David! I decided to answer it publicly here so we can all benefit by talking about it in the comments and sharing any good links and resources, too. Really quick, I’ll share my thoughts below in case you’re interested.
My Thoughts: Pros / Cons of 40′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House
Overall I like the idea of building on a larger trailer because I would probably never really move it unless I had to so for me the extra space might be worth it especially if you want to share the house with someone else. In summary, below, I’m sharing the obvious pros/cons of a 40′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House.
Benefits of a 40′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House
- No upstairs sleeping loft (you can have a downstairs bedroom)
- You get around 300 sq. ft. of space
- Your cabin is on wheels so you can still move it if needed
- Easier to live tiny as a couple or even young family
- Can also be easier to live/work from if you work from home
- You can build your house with a lower height because you don’t need a loft
- Gooseneck trailers are more stable when you’re towing
‘The Cons’ of a 40′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House
- You don’t have as much height inside
- 40′ is pretty big so towing and getting around with it is more difficult
- You’ll definitely need a powerful truck to move it
- You can hardly fit into a 40′ campsite (you can opt for 30′ or 32′ trailer instead though)
Resources for Gooseneck Trailer Tiny Houses
- Clothesline Tiny Homes (Why a Gooseneck Trailer)
- Macy Miller’s 5th Wheel Tiny House Project (plans)
- Fat & Crunchy 32′ Gooseneck Trailer Tiny House (Layout, Trailer)
- Just for fun: ’74 VW Beetle Towing a Custom 5th Wheel Camper
Would you build on a 40′ gooseneck trailer? Why or why not? And are there any other pros/cons you can think of that I missed it? Do you have any resources to share below on where we can find more examples of long 5th wheel tiny house projects?
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I think that I wanted to do the big 5 wheel at one time but it is just me. So it would be a wasted space. I am looking at building mine. 7 tall by 7 wide by 14 long. Should be enough for me. I am going with a 7 by 20 trailer. This gives me space on the front of the tiny camper due to the fact it will be put over the tires 4 on the front 2 in the back. small boat, ATV, tons of tools that I can not get rid of.
Cool! Thanks for sharing Russell.
You call it ‘gooseneck’. That is accurate for the type of trailer that sits on a hitch ball within the bed of the vehicle.
However, most of the vehicles that traditionally move units of this size are set up for a kingpin-into-fifth-wheel type arrangement, like a semi truck main coupling. (which means you can use a semi truck to move them!!) This is more secure than the ball, handles greater weight with more aplomb. It is somewhat less capable of handling extreme articulations, particularly on the more budget fifth wheel hitches – so you’re more likely to see the gooseneck- ball arrangement on offroad typical units, such as horse trailers.
Given that most of these tiny houses are hardly moved at all anyway, I don’t think the site-fit problem will be nearly as large as the coupler setup issue when trying to find a vehicle to move it – if you don’t have a Dually Diesel F350 like I do at least. Which is set up to move either type of coupler. 😀
Hi guys well I already have the trailer and will soon be in process of building I’m thinking 30ft house with 10feet dance floor on back end or just table playing cards
Goosneck trailer hitch and or the ball that is put in the bed of heavy duty pickup truck. 3/4 ton and up are rated for 30,000 lbs. Plenty capacity for tiny home build. No semi needed.
I would be concerned about the weight of the house on a trailer with only 2 axels and so low to the ground as well as the small size of those tires. People are forgetting about the weight of what’s going on that trailer. I had a 45 foot fifth wheel travel trailer years ago but the materials used to build a trailer are not 2 x 4 ‘s and asphalt roof shingles . I could certainly tell the difference in that and a 35 foot ball hitch trailer ! And that Tiny House on wheels is not like a travel trailer designed to move as many miles as you want to move it.
Gloria on these types of trailers. It’s not just 2 axles. its dual wheels and tires on both axles meaning there is 8 wheels and tires on that trailer and is capable of carrying more weight than you would ever get from even the most elaborate of tiny houses. I assure you weight is the one thing you wouldn’t have to be concerned with using this trailer. The tires aren’t small. it just looks that way because the picture is so far off. Also the trailer is not low to the ground. in fact its a little to high.
My apologies. I was not trying to report the comment. I simply wanted to agree with Tyler on his reply to Gloria. I am in the beginning stages of purchasing a 40′ Gooseneck heavy duty equipment trailer that is a dually tire triple axle trailer, and the under carriage is built like an Ox! It is 36″ (37″ where sub-flooring would be installed), and I do not want lofts in mine. The measurements are within Tiny House Road Limits, which will not require me to have a permit for road travel.
I have been thinking about going longer rather than higher and am seriously thinking about a 40′ gooseneck using the gooseneck part for solar battery and water tank storage. If I needed to move it, which would be rare, I’d just hire someone to do it for me. It’s an attractive option for retirees.
I was thinking the same – would like a nice long trailer (28″ and up) to make a really neat “tiny” with room to grow… and I would not plan on moving it often unless needed – and since I would not want to own something big enough to haul this, I’d hire someone for the day. Much safer this way. If I wanted to roadtrip on the side quite often, I’d convert a schoolbus as well (skoolie) and rent it out when not in use, it could also be an addition with a connecting deck! 🙂
I am also thinking of doing a 28′ or longer trailer if I design and build my own tiny house on wheels. I love the idea of having room to grow. I would love to see the end result if you ended up building one?
We are considering a semi trailer for our tiny house. We know all the regulations for moving and have the equipment to move it. We only plan on moving it once a year. Our plan gives us 480 sq. feet or living space. And a lot more options for the floor plan.
Hi Tricia. Check this out: https://tinyhousetalk.com/couple-building-semi-trailer-tiny-house/
I would – and have – considered building on a longer gooseneck/5th wheel trailer. I’ve even thought about using a semi truck “lowboy” or “dropped-deck” trailer. I don’t have a pickup truck – don’t really want one. However, if I did have to move a THOW, I would probably hire somebody to do it for me in any case regardless of the size.
Good call Michael. You can always hire out the towing/moving of your THOW so you don’t necessarily have to own an F350/250 truck.
And why wouldn’t you go ahead and make it the 13’6″ that most of them are? Two loft spaces that could be office, or bedrooms or (the always needed) storage could give you plenty of room to live and have a hobby, too.
Marcy, the trailer is 3 feet off the ground, and the roof construction/joists etc would be a minimum of another 6 inches, leaving you 10 ft for main and loft space. Minus the minimum of 3 inches for the loft floor, and another 3 inches insulation for the house floor you have 9’6″. While storage would be doable, you’d have either almighty low ceilings in your main floor space, or very very low ceilings in your loft space, or both. Unless you were a very short person with very short friends, there just isn’t much space for 2 stories. The reason tiny houses are doable without triggering attacks of acute caustrophobia is because they are set up to give the appearance of more space than is there, and two 4’9″ ceilings, or a 6′ and a 3’6″ ceiling would give most people the screaming heebie jeebies.
Completely Agree. I’m curious what sort of space you could create in the smaller secondary platform towards the front of the gooseneck.
The secondary platform could possibly provide enough height for a loft-type bedroom. There’s no need to be able to stand up, just enough to kneel or even sit in a low chair/cushion. It would be at least as usable as the lofts in most tiny houses. It would be accessed by ladder from the main, large deck.
Ceiling height can be built just like a normal 5thwheel/ gooseneck RV. My current full time home is 42′ with 4 slide outs. I have been contemplating building my own just so I can have the layout I want and all around sturdier setup.
I agree. I’d go as tall as I could. Utilizing every inch I could as legally allowable!
Having a tiny house on a 5er that long is a great idea so long as you have a 1 ton truck. Otherwise, you will be overloaded. And though lighter duty trucks may be capable of handling the load, it is very likely that if you have an accident, the insurance company will not cover you. I have seen this situation arise on numerous occasions and, unfortunately, you never know until the insurance adjuster comes out to look at the trailer AFTER an accident if the coverage will be declined. Suggest that ANYONE who owns a tiny house that is trailered or an RV have it weighed at a certified truck scale to insure you are not overloaded when towing.
I have a tiny house built on a 32′ 5er and it works really well. The ease of towing, the increased safety a 5er adds to towing over a “bumper pull” and the additional strength of the 5th wheel frame makes the 5er a better option, in my estimation, over the travel trailer configuration.
On the other hand, you need a more specialized vehicle when towing a 5er and, as pointed out, the bed height on a 5er is typically higher than on a travel trailer thereby limiting or eliminating a loft.
I purchased an adaptor for around $4-500. that converts the fifth wheel to a gooseneck configuration. By adding this, towing noise is negligible and hookup is still relatively easy. Too, you can purchase a gooseneck ball that can be removed easily from the bed or dropped down under the bed’s surface. As a consequence, you don’t alter the utility of the truck bed when it is not towing the trailer. Too, it is generally much easier to find an alternate source to do the towing if you did not have a truck. Most all livestock trailers use a gooseneck hookup vs. 5th wheel so most who farm have the gooseneck hookup on their trucks.
One issue to consider is the ability to drop off a travel trailer vs a gooseneck. There is virtually no time wasted in unhooking a travel trailer vs a 5er and a wider range of vehicles can tow a travel trailer vs a 5er. Still, I would NEVER choose a travel trailer over a 5er. And you would too if you ever had a tire blowout or other accident. I had both tires on one side of the trailer explode and disintegrate (though practically new) at 60 mph and the trailer did not pull at all. As a result, I was able to safely pull the trailer off the highway without any problems at all… unlike dealing with that situation in a travel trailer.
I am personally very pleased with the 32′ 5er tiny house I own and really wish I had chosen a longer trailer, like the 40′ you are contemplating. Good luck on your choices.
Do you have any pics or plans to sell. I’m having a hard time picturing how to build on a goose neck trailer. There don’t seem to be many out there but I think it’s a great way to go, if I could only figure it out.
I’m also working on designs for a 32′ 5th wheel/goose tiny house and I’m having a REALLY difficult time finding dimensions anywhere on how large you can build out the portion of the trailer that goes over the hitch. That’s where we plan to put our bedroom and I’ve seen Tiny House Nation episodes that seem to have PLENTY of space but I just can’t find dimensions. How large can you build out that area? Also, I’m pretty sure I’ve read that the 32′ is for the deck and that the portion over the hitch is additional length… is that accurate?
PJ Trailers has a really decent looking new-ish option for their upper (over the tongue) space of their decks. Check it out?
They are listed as being 102″ wide, 96″ long and weighing about 450 pounds. I suspect the fabrication of a similar deck to an existing used trailer would not be much of an undertaking for a seasoned welder.
My personal THOW sketches and plans utilize a 22′ main deck RGN with this feature serving as the ‘loft’ area. 100% Agreed, that 70 precious square feet of raised real estate space is just too prime to waste!
I just found out I have CHF about 5years to go, no family no ira. So I’m hoping for a small lotto winning to build my first home, a mini home well a long mini home. Or what ever my employer gives me( hope its enough). I’m going thru a lot of medical and insurance paper work. Hope by end of year I can start on it. A 40 foot aluminium trailer with a upper deck goose neck with king pin. In the rear a poch/office space where I can park a very small elec-car. living room, spiral staircase with heating system running thru the middle. a u-shape kit, a bathroom on the split level with exterior door(on the upper deck). 2 full bedroom a nd a spare kids room, den,anything room upstairs. with 4 hydraulics lift to raise upstairs to 6’2″ center 6′ sides. the whole second floor will rise just the roof, it will have overlapping walls. all built of aluminium. exterior will have lights where required all led with the shield interchangeable colors. Also a long porch which folds up, when parked ust pull out the pins from the trailer and lower porch, also back steps will be steps/ramp that folds up. Have pictured in my mine but it will take time and money. lowest trailer i found was 20 1/2 inches off the ground. I’ll buy a semi and rent it out, and just move once a year, about 5 times. I want to really experience america the beautifull (yes when spell beautiful talking about america i spell it with two “l’s”, and then take pictures and leave that behind for the world. In the end I’ll donate trailer to needy family, and the reason so many rooms is in case someone else wants to join in
I agree this is the way to have a second story instead of a loft. Have the second story telescope down over the first to the height of the beds for travel and then jack it back up when in place.
I am currently working on the opposite extreme. A tent camper to have solid panels to insert when the roof is jacked up and the bedroom slides out over the tongue. [will post the project when we get further along] but the experience helps me see how the jacking is done and gives me ideas on how to do it on a larger scale.
Also there is a 40 foot gooseneck trailer frame in a farmers field for a $1,000.
For off grid living I like the idea of the water tank above the gooseneck which means the water would be gravity feed to the sinks, toilet and tub. An on demand propane water heater that could also do under floor heating is another want.
Great idea. Any news on is? Would love to see pics.
any one thinking of a 40foot trailer go with aluminium lighter, save gas gives you more to work with add ons. also, better against the weather elements. try to get a low profile, or low boy, or if you find a drop axel sure the bed will be below the tires you lose a box at floor level where you can put a seat over, but you,ll gain precious inches in hight. hint interior try try to go with light wood or colors if you like dark usa bottom half of wall dark, top half light makes room look bigger. Everyone check out travel lights trailers built all of aluminium, at least for great ideas.
I forgot to mention that i will mount on my entire roof solar panels, and by the goose neck a extending mast with wind blades I found the best design is that of the shown in the movie, waterworld which wraps around the mast, able to pick up even light winds from any direction. plus to other ideas for power. Here is a idea for chu nk kids have an electric engineer build you a converter so your kids have to walk or exercise bike to watch tv, the might hate you but come prom they’ll look good!
I see no problem at all in constructing on you gooseneck trailer. Above the gooseneck you could put a bed, a reading area, or the hot water heater and furnace. It’ll be heavy though! You might look into how much a regular tiny house about 16′ long weighs to get a running foot estimate. The wheels might be set back a bit far for good weight distribution?
I just don’t think I could handle the length! My Dually Crew Cab, full bed Truck is about 20 ft by itself and my currently in the build process THOW is on a 24 ft trailer
So that’s already well over 30 ft with the tongue added. I can’t imagine towing and driving something much longer than that. But I’m a soon to be 60 yr old Grandma, so maybe someone younger would be up to it.
My wife and I traveled north Amercia averaging over 50 parks each year for several years in a 35 footer. We found smaller parks in the north east, but had no problem finding ample parking throughout the rest on the country. You should call ahead for length requirements. There are numerous 40 + footers on the highways. Many top end units measure 46 foot.
As David said, he doesn’t plan to move it much. Under this circumstances 40′ length seems to be okay as long as he is going to find a place to park.
I don’t see any need to add lofts and increase the the height. Imagine how a a 40′ TH with a pitch roof looks like. What he can do is to go on 10′ overall height plus trailer height to get a roomier interior with higher ceilings.
I would use a 40′ shipping container and make a nice house although 30′ seems to sufficient but thats a matter of needs and taste.
the bad would be where the axle are , i would think you would need to either slide them forward or add a set, for a better balance , other than that it really wouldn’t be much different than using a 28 ft or 30, if you start one keep us posted,
I could certainly see using a gooseneck Trailer — one can always opt to use what would be the bedroom over the gooseneck for closet/storage and opt for using a Murphy bed in the living area or even a raised floor and a slide out bed underneath. I have also wondered about the feaseability of using a roof system over part of the trailer that would allow you to raise the roof hydraulicly when parked and of course lower it when towing. I have seen this done on some motor coaches — seems like a good idea — has anyone out there thought of or tried this?
Jaaa, i hope is possinle to make this raise up roof for a industrial 40 f trailer. Hope to bild one for a family of 6 … where did you see a raise up roof for a tiny house? We live now in Austria bot we what to live in this tiny house in Romania. see you
“Don’t intend on moving it often”!!!!.. build a skid shack and use the trailer when need be. What part ov this picture of my not getting?
Exactly. I would not be moving this thing often (3-5 years). Even if I moved it….it would be done by a professional…I’m not buying an F350. 😀
if you don’t move it ; then go for it, you can build a nice tiny home in 40 ft. gooseneck or not plenty of room what you waiting for get started ,
The biggest problem about building on a trailer that long would be the fact that it needs to be able to bend and twist when hauling. If you build a solid structure onto it and it torques going over a hump your probably going to break something.
For the past two years I have been exploring the Tiny House movement and the trailer/truck situation. Having lived aboard my sailboat for the past 30 years, and now ready to do some ‘land’ cruising, I have also investigated the ‘lay of the land’, including State and National Parks, America the Beautiful cards, overnight parking in Walmart’s and rest stops, etc.
Here are the things I have discovered:
State and National parks begin to have difficulty with trailers over 30 feet. 27 is the number they seems to like best, but there are PLENTY of places where a 40 foot trailer slips right in.
The longer the wheelbase on your tow vehicle, the more room you need to maneuver. The longer the gap between your tow vehicles rear wheels and the trailers wheels, the more trouble you will have with tight corners in multilane roads in the city.
Any hitch in the middle of a pickup bed shoots that storage space right in the ass, no ‘if’s and’s or butt’s’. Don’t kid yourself. If you are moving into a Tiny House, you cannot just ‘poh, pooh’ that much storage space.
Staying ‘just under’ or near the maximum towing capacity for your tow vehicle is flirting with disaster. Any one of a dozen common tow difficulties can throw you out of control and possible risk your life.
To me, mobility means MOBILITY. Wind resistance, balance, control, and reliability, all enhanced without sacrificing comfort, are absolutely essential.
I am going for a 1994/1999 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel, with the full bed and crew cab, a bumper hitch 30 foot enclosed car hauler from Husky Trailer, insulated stock, then adding 4″ of rigid foam to the roof and another 2″ to the walls all around.
The truck bed will be covered with a waterproof fiberglass cover, so I can store tools, books (I am a writer and sell my own books) and off season clothing, etc, in waterproof storage bins.
The extended wheelbase of the truck makes it a little bit of a pain, but pays big dividends when braking on a down slope with the 10,000 pound trailer pressing down on the rear hitch.
The fold-down rear trailer ramp makes it easy to keep a motorcycle in the trailer, for all sorts of touring and short grocery, etc., runs. All solar panels on the roof and propane for cooking and heat.
The main reason for going with the car hauler is that it is a superior item for a low price – $6000 new and complete – strong and able to keep me out of the weather instantly.
Basically, for $12,000 you can have a great used truck and a brand new trailer and get started on your way.
I also thought a 40 door gooseneck trailer would be ideal. I thought bed over the gooseneck area, then twenty ft.tiny house, then maybe an8 to 10 ft. Deck area and a space to haul a motor cycle or a small car.
I am also looking into building my tiny house on a goose neck trailer. However I am looking at a 30 or 32 ft trl. 40 is a really long trailer for most pick up trucks. I haul new rv’s for a living and the 4o ft trl’s are tricky to get around. But that can and are moved every day. As for space I plan for 11ft total height. In place of a loft I am looking into making a raised platform for something like a small seating area and the bed would be rolled under the platform at night. With a raised platform of 32 in, you still have plenty of head room.
I’m currently building a 32′ house on a gooseneck trailer. 24′ on the deck and 8′ on the neck. Quite spacious at this size, in my opinion, and still fairly easy to move around, even with a decent 3/4 ton. I’m always a little inclined to not call houses this large “tiny”, but the term is relative to the users needs and also what they were previously living in, so I say as long as the house can safely be built to stay under the tow rating for the truck, go for it! 40′ on the deck is very long and will be hard to maneuver, esp a trailer like the one pictured with the axles so far back, but it is possible. I would maybe consider 32′ on the deck and 8′ over the neck, and like others have mentioned using a deck between or lowboy to lower your deck height down to 24″ and free up some vertical space for design elements (including lofts).
Can’t wait to see that Greg! Thanks so much for sharing.
I’ve been thinking about this kind of trailer for a 30′ or 40′ container home. I’d hire a professional when i wanted to move it. I need 1 level living, since I’m a vet with spinal issues. I’m planning to relocate this year, and it seems like a good time to make even bigger (smaller) changes as well! I’d trust the rigidity of a container when moving it, too.
My thought is: the tiny house on skids, the foundation, a pair of treated 6″ X 6″ attached, The house would be built up from there. And like a roll-off dumpster, only softer set down where you needed it. Saves cost of trailer & licence, and truck, as you can “hire” a move when needed.
Stay DOT size have a pro. do the haul no prob. Go over size and mover can get a permit to move. You can drive the car!
Here is a very detailed and informative example of building a tiny house on a gooseneck trailer. http://atinyhomecompanion.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&max-results=4
Angie….thanks for sharing our site on this topic. We hope to inspire more people into gooseneck trailers as a base for tiny houses. We are in the home stretch of our build and loving how everything is working out so far!
I am brand new to even the idea of tiny living. And this thread popped up after some googling. And it’s very much gibberish ?. Like I said…. Brand new. We are really thinking about tiny living. With my husband in the military we move about every 2-4 years. We just really would love to be able to take our house with us when that happens. And also, we’ve gotten quite tired of the keeping up with jones’. So I’m also looking for something that wouldn’t need to be as mobile. But would need to be able to be moved and strong enough to sustain a cross country move. We could move from washington state to Maryland. We never know. I hadn’t heard of the semi truck trailer option (I was looking into the goose neck, 40 footer also lol). This seems perfect for us. So that we could have it professionally moved. AND we wouldn’t have to invest in a gigantic truck, which would defeat the purpose of minimizing expenses. And still keeping it to size doable for a family of 4. With a 5 & 6 yr old… So not talking toddlers here. Lol. And not to mention my husband is 6 foot 4. So I was toying with the idea of having stacked bedrooms on one end. So he can actually walk around and shower comfortably. Can SOMEONE! ANYONE! please post me links and info for research on what our options could be?! Especially this semi truck one. This is the first I’ve read about it. And I’ve read hours and hours of blogs.
Stacked bedrooms? Done in the 1950s in mobile homes. Back when the max width was 8′, some builders, e.g. Ventoura, dropped the rear floor and stacked the bedrooms. Of course the ceiling height in those bedrooms was only a bit over 6′, but as I said, it was done. As a matter of fact, Alex has an article on an 8×40 two-story MH for sale: https://tinyhousetalk.com/1954-two-story-vintage-travel-trailer-sale/.
Semi trailer builds on the custom and costlyside but good research. Spacecraft RV manufacturer, but just research can be accomplished by looking at 5 the wheel layouts. RVs also have all the heat and air conditioning configuration of tiny living. And work perfectly on a 50 amp plug to be powered at any RV park.
We have been looking at the same thing using a 40′ gooseneck. I think what some posters on here do not realize is that a 40′ gooseneck is usually 32′ deck and 8′ neck. This is similar to bumper pulling a 30′ trailer but with better maneuverability by having the hookup in the bed.
My wife and I are almost done with our tiny house. It is built on a 32 foot goose neck trailer. It gives us aboot 300 sq ft with the porch which is 8 x 5. Check us out at (http://atinyhomecompanion.blogspot.com).
I’m curious, why does a longer trailer require lower head room?
Natalie, I believe the lower head room comes from the fact that the trailer height is much higher than other non-gooseneck style trailers. In one of the comments, it was mentioned that the deck height could be as much as 30″ or more off the ground.
I really want to do a low boy tiny house. I don’t want to invest in a truck but I want to pay to have moved. I only plan on moving it two or three times. The reason build the big tiny house is for financial freedom. I want to live in it in NJ, when I retire move it to NC. That’s it. Paid for live cost effectively. If I want to travel I would just buy a small travel trailer. All comments or person interested in building this please post.
I am looking for a 9’W x 32L or a 9’W x 35’L gooseneck trailer with a minimum 7′ long gooseneck deck. I’m thinking a lowboy would be best as although it is my house I know my family and friends are going to travel with me sometimes, which is why I would like to have a 9′ 9′ interior height to allow for two different types of lofts (Living area over a bed area and a loft above the bathroom). I have spent many months trying to find a trailer online and have yet to find one… Any ideas on how to search to find one? Any particular brand anyone can suggest? Does anyone know of a good website to look at?
You aren’t likely to find a 9′ wide trailer as DOT regulations limit trailer width to 8’6″. Anything wider requires oversize permits and costs extra money to transport not to mention extra hassle traveling around construction areas and narrow roads. You are unlikely to find a lowboy gooseneck because the heavy equipment hauled on lowboys requires heavy duty construction that will make it too heavy to be pulled by a pickup even before the home construction begins. Goosenecks aren’t rated for the weight of a lowboy, they require 5th wheel hookups. You should be able to find lowboy trailers on most any heavy equipment site but you will need a commercial rig to haul it, a semi tractor, not a pickup. Lowboys are heavy!!! I’ve seen them rated to 180,000 lbs (90 tons!) versus the standard 14k (7 tons) or 24k (12 tons) found on typical dual or tandem gooseneck trailers. Good Luck!
I believe what he was saying about lowboy is the lower deck gooseneck trailer not the heavyweight semi lowboy trailer.
Just wanted to follow up with some comments…no one is allowed to “travel” in any trailer while underway, that’s only allowed in motor homes.
My dual tandem gooseneck trailer is 32′ long on the deck plus foldover ramps on the 3′ dovetail and over 40′ long counting the gooseneck. Empty trailer is rated for 24,ooo lbs and weighs 7630 lbs, diesel F350 weighs 8800 lbs for a total of 16,430 lbs. Legally I can only haul around 3000 lbs payload on the trailer although I often load over 15,000 lbs of round bales when making hay and driving just on the farm. For comparison my 32′ Puma travel trailer w/slides weighs less than 10,000 lbs loaded for vacation and has a gooseneck adapter.
If/when(?) I ever decide to build a tiny home it will be on a 24′-28′ deck length gooseneck with triple single axles rated @ 21k-22k. The loss of width is more than made up for in the height gained with the lower deck height and anything longer would be a hassle on a touring trailer where you have to find nightly parking for a 50′ plus setup. Triple single axles are significantly lighter than tandem dual axles and you only lose 2-3k in overall payload.
My own preference for a tiny home that would only be moved once or twice by professionals would be a shipping container. They can be completely customized but come with a waterproof shell, built-in roof deck (just add steps or a ladder and railings) and tropical hardwood floor out of the gate. Way cheaper and stronger than any stick built home and can be dropped off anywhere a truck can go. No need for steps or decks since they sit on the ground (but can be placed on piers and are strong enough to stack), minimal (all metal) exterior upkeep and no cost in buying a trailer or possible expenses in maintaining a trailer (inspections/yearly registrations, tags, lights, frame, brakes and tires just to start). Just my .02 cents, ymmv.
I’m thinking of building one to travel/live in and use as a toyhauler with an 11ft garage. I like the idea of having it all on one level, adding tool boxes on the underside of the trailer for extra storage.
Alex, years ago, my husband and I traveled the west coast, and south in our 40 ft. Fifth wheel with a ‘tip out’ for seven years! I loved it! There were a few difficult times trying to maneuver it to get fuel or parking it, but it was still worth it! If I had a chance, I would do it all over again!
I was looking at building a tiny home on a 40′ goose-neck trailer, however I am having trouble finding the right dimensions for the trailer deck and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction to find them. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
102″ is the limit width without the need of permits, all of the trailer manufactures give a demensions on their websites for you to find the perfect size for you.
I have horse trailers and I’ve always wondered about putting the bed area over the fifth wheel. That is where most beds are in horse trailers which leaves tons of floor room
So the flat bed itself is 40 ft. and what the goose neck another 4, or 5 Ft…? Heck where did you find that trailer if it is 40 ft. in the flat alone, I would love to know where to get one….?
Could try Ebay 🙂 http://www.ebay.com/bhp/used-gooseneck-trailers
Yea…! Thank you…! I guess that is more than likely where I will have to look… But I think I will have to bottom Line do some studying the construction of their trailers, and build one my self as at those prices I would have to be employing the trailer in order for it to pay off buying one through them… I have done a lot of business with large machinery where I had these trailers that they are selling working for me… They are used to haul heavy machinery, and heavy equipment such as bulldozers.. After hurricane Frances came thru here in 2005, I had employed 4 of these trailers, but they are much to valuable to use as trailers for A larger tiny house in which I had in mind for the trailer I’m seeking… But Thank you any way, It was very nice that you offered to help….
Of course Zachary 🙂 My pleasure! I hope you find just what you are looking for!
JP trailers, gatormade trailers, big Tex trailers, overbuilt trailers to name a few.
There was guy from a couple of years ago who built his tiny home on a 40′ trailer. He was still working on the inside, last I checked. He was featured on this site. Sorry, I cannot remember his name but he had a FB page and was documenting his experience. Maybe Natalie can dig that up for you?
If I remembered it I probably could, but I’m afraid we have too many posts with “gooseneck” as a keyword for me to locate it unless I spent hours 🙁
This guy actually built one,
I would be much more interested in a 40’+ gooseneck myself. While it’s just my wife & I, we do want space for our computers, and more storage, etc. I’m a cabinetmaker and move to where the work is. I’d be much more interested in something large enough to move every few years (economies rise & fall) that would allow me to move all my tools & accouterments.
Those are good things to consider, for sure!
I’m confused by some of the comments. I’ve seen several you tube videos with gooseneck trailers that have a loft for sleeping. Has something changed in the heights?
Hi Bonnie — I think they just mean you can’t have a loft on the goosneck end, because you are losing height on that side.
Wow this thread is pretty old but it keeps getting picked up because it has a lot of good discussions in it and great bits of information so I’ll add some more.
We are just starting to build a THOW on a 40′ fifth wheel G.N. trailer, the goose neck ads 8′ which we will extend by 2′ for a 10′ bedroom (you see Natalie you can build a loft on the goose-neck! and a pretty nice one at that) The trailer is a 12yr. old 6800lbs. used unit with brand new torsion axles, rated @7000 lbs. x3 allowing for truck capacity makes for 25000lbs. capacity! And since my dear wife refuses to do the 8′ trailer thing, we’re widening the whole unit to 10’9″ at the house level and the roof will be even wider maybe 12′ (less for transport?).
But the total dimensions will be 10′ x 49’3″ Floor space for 515 sq. ft.
The height in the bedroom will be around 6.5 to 7 ft. 😏 tada… .
The Tiny House itself will be build out of SIP’s while the inside finish will be baltic birch and white cabinetry the outside will be a mix of cedar shakes, modern and or traditional forms of siding.
We are just now starting to sandblast and paint the frame , the SIP’s are arriving in 3 to 4 weeks when the floor should be done and the walls can go up!!! We Hope? more then likely it will be a little slower 😟.
I’m thinking about doing the same…this one got me thinking about it: