Americana Tiny Home For Sale on eBay

2012 The Americana Tiny Home For Sale

The first thing I want to tell you is that this Americana Tiny Home for sale is a pre-built shell so the interior is not 100% finished.

This solar powered tiny house has a side entry and totals to 211-square-feet of interior space. But wait, does the auction include the panels? Yes, I checked and it sure does.

I think it’s a great design but I’m not all for the James Hardie HardiePanel Cedarmill Siding even though I’ve heard it’s less maintenance.

The 8′ by 19’2″ home is built right on a trailer so it’s like a custom built RV with an 8′ by 7’6″ sleeping loft. You just have to finish the interior like choosing your own kitchen countertops.

All of the exterior is finished and the interior walls are framed. This means windows and doors are already in place along with the water heater and propane hook ups.

The tiny house has metal roof with a 30 year warranty and it sits on a dual axle trailer with a 7,000 lbs of weight capacity.

americana tiny house for sale auction 1   Americana Tiny Home For Sale on eBay

I urge you to check out some more photos and the rest of the details below:

Construction Details

  • 2 x 4 exterior wall construction (studs)
  • American Craftsman LowE3 insulated glass
  • Floors are insulated and installed with waterproof liner
  • Tyvek HomeWrap installed
americana tiny house for sale auction 2   Americana Tiny Home For Sale on eBay

Specifications

  • Tiny House Length: 19’ 2“
  • Overall Length: 22’ 10”
  • Width: 8‘
  • Height: 12’ 8”
  • Living: 16‘ x 8’
  • Sleeping/Storage Loft: 7.5‘ x 8’
  • Back Storage Shed: 6‘ x 5’ x 19”
  • Weight: 4,860 lb. Certified CAT Scale

Ceiling Heights

  • Bathroom: 6‘ 11“
  • Living: 7‘ 7“ , Vaulted Ceiling 10’
  • Loft Peak: 33 1/2”
americana tiny house for sale auction 3   Americana Tiny Home For Sale on eBay

Door & Windows

  • Entry Door: 32” x 80”
  • Bathroom Door: 24” x 76”
  • Windows (6): 32” x 36”
  • Loft AC/Window Opening: 24” x 18
Included Options & Upgrades
  • 30 Amp Utilities – (2) 110 Outlets in loft. (7) 110 outlets, (3) GCFI outlets, (1) exterior GCFI outlet. Pantry light, bathroom light and exhaust fan. 25 ft 30 AMP exterior cable.
  • Remote Controlled Ceiling Fan
  • LG LW7012HR 7,000 BTU AC with Heating and remote control
  • Exterior Low Maintenance Vinyl Siding
  • Faux Brick Exterior Siding
  • Phono Solar 1800 Watt Solar Generator (2 )140 Watt Solar Panels (batteries not included)

americana tiny house for sale auction 4   Americana Tiny Home For Sale on eBay

Source: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tiny-House-Americana-Pre-Built-Shell-/261141663377

This Americana Tiny Home was built by Tiny House Company and is currently listed for sale on eBay. Copy and paste the following link into your browser to place a bid if you’re interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tiny-House-Americana-Pre-Built-Shell-/261141663377

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Alex

Alex has been living in small spaces for more than 7 years, he's the founding editor of TinyHouseTalk.com and the always free Tiny House Newsletter, and has passion for exploring and sharing tiny homes (from yurts and RVs to cabins and cottages) and inspiring simple living stories. Send in your story and tiny home photos so we can share and inspire others towards simplicity too. Thank you!

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{ 13 comments }

  • john December 15, 2012, 3:54 pm

    I like the idea of interior finishing and choices by owner…we all like the idea of configuring our spaces and have clever ideas on space management to implement…we are tiny house fans after all…wiring and plumbing should be done or overseen by the owners as it’s likely they will need that knowledge for future repairs, without a blueprint guessing would mean cutting into walls to look for things.
    Very nice style, additional insulation would be recommended no matter the climate, but only after wiring and plumbing. I also think it a good idead to draw a diagram with measurements and take photographs before closing up the walls…
    I don’t see why all the outlets in a tiny house shouldn’t be GFI protected…makes good sense. Also after many years of camping experience an outdoor shower is a good, cheap idea regardless of inside facilities…tracking mud, sand, whatever through your home to reach a shower is silly, a couple sections of six foot privacy fence and you have a nice and private outdoor bathing area…fancy…a few bags of stones, some bamboo for greenery and you have an outdoor zen spa…maybe even a wooden tub…tiny houses with outdoor living spaces are much less tiny, and a lot more luxurious.

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    • Cynthia December 15, 2012, 9:20 pm

      You never want all outlets to be GFCI. Refrigerators and freezers should not be on GFCI outlets. It takes .03 amps to kill a person, GFCI outlets trip at .006 amps. You don’t want your refrig. or freezer going off without your knowledge…and you wouldn’t know until you opened the refrig. and found everything warm. GFCI’s are designed for any place with water….kitchens (but not for refrig.), bathrooms, and outdoor outlets…..as you most likely already know. Hope this helps.

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  • ImReady December 15, 2012, 4:35 pm

    Like you,I’m not enthused about using the James Hardie siding on anything that is movable like this house. It is a brittle siding, and it will not be near as strong as, even OSB board. Not nearly as strong as plywood. The strength is needed for the bracing factor. When plywood is standing vertical on a wall, and securely nailed across both, top and bottom plates, and the studs, the wall will not move out of square. Assuming it was square in the first place. However, with the James Hardie siding, the holes in the siding, at each nail, will become enlarged, thereby losing it’s holding power. I’ve used a lot of this siding, is is very much like paper-concrete, very brittle. Now, if you are going to use it anyway, you can avoid losing the holding power by installing, very strong angle braces in the wall. These must be nailed to every stud, and both top and bottom plates. If this is done properly, the siding isn’t needed that much for holding the wall square. BUT, it is still on a moving wall, and, just not the best thing to use in this instance. PLUS, it is very hard to find a place on the walls of these tiny houses that you can install an angle brace. There are windows, doors, and other hindrances in these walls that won’t let you have enough room for the angle brace. I’d stick with 4′ X 8′ sheets of siding, nailed very securely. Just my opinion; I’ve been building for over 30 years.

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    • alice h December 16, 2012, 9:00 am

      Good to know! I had been planning to use T-111 as sheathing and siding both then add a rainscreen layer of the Hardi product at some point in the future, as savings accumulate. Going to rethink that for sure.

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    • Dave M December 18, 2012, 8:32 am

      I’ve installed a bunch of Hardi siding myself. The stuff in the picture looks like vinyl siding, but it sure isn’t HardiPanel. I will agree with ImReady, that Hardi products can be somewhat brittle, but if your wall is flexing that much that the siding will loosen up, you have bigger problems than siding. You’re going to have broken windows, pinched doors, etc. I think the big disadvantage that Hardi has over other products is weight. Holy cow, does that stuff weigh a ton. I love the product, but just not on something mobile.

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  • ImReady December 16, 2012, 10:36 am

    OH, but, Hardie board would be fine to use OVER the T-111, plywood, or waferboard. (less as efficient on waferboard, as it is not as strong as the T-111.) The problem would be using ONLY the hardie board siding. If you install plywood under it, then, the plywood will hold the wall, and the hardie board will just be for decoration, or as you say, “rainscreen” That will be fine! Even 3/8″ plywood, under the hardie board will do the trick! And you don’t have to go overboard on the plywood. The least expensive is perfectly fine, as it is mainly for bracing the wall. But, don’t go thinner. 1/4″ is not OK, not enough strength in it.

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    • alice h December 16, 2012, 3:40 pm

      OK, back to Plan A then. I’m using the T-111 with battens, then using the battens as furring strips when I get the Hardie stuff. It may be a few years before I get to that layer so I’m going to paint the heck out of the T-111. I’m trying to get something built now that I can upgrade as I get enough money to do so. I’m framing for standard size nicer doors and windows with some “temporary” framing inside that for cheaper, found ones and cutting the T-111 to fit the smaller stuff in the meantime. I probably won’t move the place more than once every few years anyway but it’s a heck of a ride in and out of my property.

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    • Dave M December 18, 2012, 5:21 pm

      You can’t use *just* the Hardie siding. The installation specs specifically call for it to be used over sheathing of some sort.

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      • ImReady December 18, 2012, 9:47 pm

        Yes, you’re right Dave. It wouldn’t hold up, wouldn’t stay straight,and if something hit it between the studs, it would just break into pieces. There’s very little strength to it. Just this summer, I replaced some at the bottom of a wall. It has rain water falling from the roof, splashing onto the wall. It was quite a few years old, but, it was totally destroyed. The first run, closest to the ground was just in pieces, the next one was soft and brittle, both had deteriorated to the basic material, all the paint and primer were gone. Actually, I think it had never been painted anyway. It has it’s advantages, but, like everything, it has some drawbacks too. I had to set the nail gun so it didn’t drive the nail head into the siding, and finish it off with a hammer. Plus, the wires holding the coil nails together were sticking out on a very lot of them. They had to be wiggled and broken off with needle nose pliers. It was very time consuming to install this stuff. I love the look, and the long lasting benefits from it, but, I hate installing it!!

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  • ImReady December 17, 2012, 3:38 am

    You sound like an intelligent person, you seem to think like I do, that you are never smart enough to learn something more! I’d like to help you in your process, if you want, I intend to build one myself, and collaborating together might help us both! Something that I think most people are not considering is the weight of your building, in comparison to the weight your trailer is designed to hold. I just saw a house built on an old travel trailer frame. The original was build as light as possible, thin metal exterior, aluminum windows and door frames, 2″ x 2″ framing, and thin paneling on the interior of the walls. It was, of course, the same width as the trailer frame. Well, this person had built a regularly constructed house on this frame, and it is 2 feet wider on both sides. PLUS a very high roof, higher than the original, and many times heavier. In my opinion, it is very dangerous. Now, they said they weren’t going to move it but about once a year, but, still…..It is much too heavy for that frame, since the frame was designed to carry the original travel trailer weight. Another thing is these “Loft Beds”..Now, I’m 57, fairly physically strong, but, I do NOT want to be climbing a ladder every time I to to bed, and go from the bed to the bathroom, or whatever. Climbing a ladder in my sleep is not something I need to be doing!! It is going to get old to everyone, I imagine!! My preference is an “Elevator Bed.” I intend to design a great one, and I will use it in my tiny house, maybe even in my big house! I’ve built about three Murphy beds, and they are OK too, but, the elevator bed is the tops!! I wish I had someone to finance my endeavor, but, then again, I see these “Tiny houses” on trailers selling so cheap, that I wouldn’t even attempt to match them. When I build, I will build “Light” not heavy as regular house construction. Light is better all the way around, safety, pulling ease…..Just my opinion!! I’m sure some will disagree with me, and I might even be convinced to disagree with me too !!Good Luck!!!

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    • alice h December 17, 2012, 9:58 am

      Ha, yes, the trailer and I both have to watch our weight! I’m putting my first big chunk of money into a good trailer and weatherproof (not necessarily heavy!) shell and metal roof. The plumbing and electrical will be minimal but adequate and efficient. The rest will come slowly. I’m 59, with two useless knees so lofts are for storage and grandkids, not me. I already sleep on a daybed quite comfortably and will be using some of my current standalone furniture for a while until I get around to built-ins. Doors for built-ins can wait until later too, nothing wrong with curtains for a while. I’m still debating 24″ centres vs 16″. Is there a way to exchange emails without publishing them here?

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      • ImReady December 17, 2012, 11:30 am

        I don’t know, I have a yahoo account name: jrson23 Try that, if it works, I’ll give you one that I use all the time, after we make connection on that one.

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